The propeller you use will depend entirely on your engine or electric motor. Too much pitch is counter-productive as this reduces model acceleration. Not only does this lengthen the standing-start-to-top-speed time and reduce your flight score, it also makes rapid recovery from slow flight stalls more difficult. Too little pitch, however, and the model won’t realise the maximum speed possible.
Sorry – but the only way to find the most suitable prop is by trial and error. Generally, the stiffer the propeller, the more efficient and therefore the better it is, but don’t forget that deck landings frequently break propellers and for glow engines the flexible types survive much longer. It’s most sensible to start off learning to fly Carrier with the less expensive flexible nylon props (the yellow Kavan and the white Tornado types are good examples) and graduate on to the more expensive stiffer brands (eg: Graupner, Bolly or APC) later. It’s also worth experimenting with diameter, pitch, stiffness and blade shape purely from the point of view of noise reduction. There’s often a propeller which maintains model performance whilst producing a noticeable drop in total noise. Sometimes a prop of this nature has been known to even increase performance
These need a slightly different approach.. Do not try to use a prop meant for IC (internal combustion) engines on an electric motor. There are several reasons for this:
IC props have to be made quite sturdy to sand up to vibration, oil/fuel, and other stresses
Electric props can be made much lighter and thinner, which can increases efficiency and reduce noise. Everything is relative and very high revving motors can still have prop tips approaching the speed of sound and maybe beyond, in which case expect extreme noise. Counter intuitively, electric props are not more prone to break than IC props, unless you are thinking of nylon props . These props are ideal on IC engine if you don't expect them to be highly optimised or efficient. There are some cheap drone props that are are alarmingly bendable but seem to work just fine if you are worried about breakages on Junior Class sized electric models.
Electric props tend to be stiff, and will break if do U/C bending arrivals or frequent bolters from the deck, or going full bore into the ground or deck; but then most things will beak in those circumstances...! I make all the common collisions but don't break props all that often.
With cheaper motors (I have never used expensive ones) it is possible to bend the motor shaft in a heavy collision with the deck or ground, so having the the prop break can reduce that potential damage.
I swear by electric Gemfan props; they may look like APC props but are considerably cheaper, which reduces the monetary stress when replacing broken ones. Another reason I like them is they balance easily, which brings us neatly to the subject of prop balance.
Every one has their own favourites prop brand. Just find what suits you pocket, motor/power/model and stick with the same brand. If you chop and change nothing will be the same each time you change a prop
Balance:
Most people have probably never bothered to balance a prop. With the average IC engine, any imbalance is disguised by the engine being intrinsically unbalanced in the first place by it's reciprocating motion; it's so pervasive you expect it.
Take the time to balance props, its' not difficult to do properly (I find it quite relaxing and theraputic). Do Not carve bits off one blade making it shorter; carefully remove material from the back of the heavy blade by some abrasive means. Devices exist to support props during the balancing process, the magnetic bearing type are frictionless; they are not expensive and doing this will make even an IC engine run a lot sweeter.
An electric motor does not vibrate, so any imbalance in the prop can be very noticeable. If bad, over time this will not do the motor bearings any good at all. It's usually noticeable as a slightly harsh noise. A well balance prop tends to hum unless doing silly revs; or a fan having a small numbers of blades in an EDF (Electric Ducted Fan).